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New Years Bling


As you know by now, the biggest social event in my house is my dolls' Black and White Ball each New Year's Eve in my living room. It started out as a party atop the piano, but I acquired more dolls than piano top space to accommodate everyone. So...we extended the party to the cocktail table and then atop the buffet in the dining room. And now, there are parties all over the house!!!

Throughout the year, while replicating designer fashions, red carpet gowns and the like, my girls "ear mark" the dress they want for this ball. Over the past couple years, I have made so many gowns and party dresses  that every single doll in the house is dressed and ready to rock the New Year in. But still....there are always last minute requests for "special" items. And since I haven't posted too many tutorials lately, I decided to do one last one before the year's end. And though you might not be able to make one of these dresses in time for tonight's party....don't forget...the red carpet season is just around the corner!

Sequins are small round discs in contrast to paillettes which are super-sizes sequins that usually come in a variety of sizes, shapes and materials. Popular back in the 1960's, these sweet little dresses were guaranteed to get you noticed at any party. In fact, a dress we spotted from the spring 2019 fashion collection of Ashish (UK), served as the catalyst for this post. Take a close look. The first thing you notice is how simple the basic dress is! 

For this project, I used three dress foundations: a one piece tube I made directly on the doll from a folded over rectangle of fine tulle, a strapless stretch lame sheath, and a basic foundation sheath made from (woven) white cotton. Again, the focus is not the silhouette of the garment, but rather, the overall effect and sparkle of the paillettes! 


Basic Tube Dress
Personally, I prefer to use some sort of stretch material in a matching or neutral color as a base for these dresses. When I made the first one, I selected a medium grey fine tulle and decided to make it directly on the doll. Here's how I did it:
1. Cut a rectangular square large enough to fit around the doll's body, then add an additional 1/2" (1cm). The length will be whatever your desired length is times 2. So for this doll, my rectangle measured 7" (18cm) long by 5" (13cm) wide. Fold in half vertically (the fold will be at the top), then stitch each side by about 1/4" (5mm)
2. Turn outside in. You can press this down with an iron on low setting and a press cloth. 
3. Wrap this around the doll, folding over the seam allowance at the back and pin down the center.
4. Turn over to the front. You notice how the tube dress is gaping around the torso.

5. On each side of the body, fold the excess towards the back to form a long dart. Try to keep the two darts fairly even in terms of volume.
6. Pin (dart going towards the back) then hand sew this down using a back stitch. Be sure to tie a knot at the start of this dart and another at the end so the dart stays secure. Don't worry how this will look because the paillettes will eventually cover this.
Inasmuch as this was the first dress I made, I simply started sewing on the paillettes, starting from the hemline and working upwards. I wanted the look of scales overlapping each other in a downward direction. The first line of paillettes were stitched on the center front of the dress. When I arrived at the top, I knotted the last one, cut the thread, then began again, using the first column as a guide.

The result was exactly perfect though me and the doll were pretty happy. A lot depends on the look you are going for. If it is going to be tiled like shingles, then you need to add in guide lines like we did in the dresses later on in this post.

But if, for example, we were to use irregular shapes or simply wanted a random look, then the helter-skelter way in which we worked will suffice. By the way...notice how on one side of the center back, I have overlapped the paillettes whereas on what will lie underneath that seam I have purposely left an empty margin. Use snaps or hooks and eyes to close along that seam allowance and fold the one side (our right) over the other (our left) for a perfect fit.


But let's get back to the basics.... Here's a close up look at how I sewed on the paillettes.
1. Double thread the needle, tying a knot at the end. Start by pushing the needle from the underside of the fabric. 
2. Make two tiny stitches and another knot.
3. Pull to tighten then add your first paillette.
4. Pull the needle through the hole of the paillette, then wrap the next stitch to the side of the paillette.
5. Then, poke the needle through the hole again, this time from the back but at the top of the paillette. You want to anchor the first and last paillette this way. Pull the needle through.

6. Place the needle about 1/2 the width of the paillette away and make another stitch.
7. Place the needle through the hole of a new paillette then repeat step 5. That is, place the needle through the back of the paillette and pull through the hole.
8. You want to keep repeating this step until you have completed an entire column. I tend to work from bottom to top, but depending on the effect, you can also work side to side--especially if you have paillettes with holes at the top.
9. When you have the last paillette in place, wrap the needle around to the side to near the hole in back of the paillette, back through the hole and again push the needle to the underside.
10. Make a couple of tiny stitches and knot. Continue until you have covered the pattern piece.


Working with stretch
You don't have to work with tulle. A stretch fabric is also good to use. What could be interesting is to team up paillettes with either complimenting or contrasting colored fabrics. But with stretch fabrics comes another challenge. How to get the paillettes on without contorting the fabric. 

If we were working in couture for this kind of work (as well as beading and embroidery), we would have to transfer the pattern to the fabric then put everything onto a frame prior to adding the first paillette. But for the sake of simplification and coming up with a technique that is fairly easy, I did away with using a frame for most of the dresses. The purpose of working on a frame is to avoid the fabric from shrinking and buckling from all of the stitches. For the most part, I found working with a frame to be very time consuming, super difficult to stitch together the garment after everything is in place (especially if it has darts) and for me, the outcome wasn't worth the effort for the look I was attempting to achieve. HOWEVER...when it comes to working with stretch fabric....I found the frame to be most helpful.

1. You can use a wooden picture frame or make something yourself. Here I've used painter's stirring sticks which I taped together at just the right proportions.
2. I transferred my pattern onto a piece of gun metal silver lame jersey. I chose this fabric to compliment the hologram (otherwise known as 3-D) paillettes in a discount store in Paris. First I used chalk to mark the cutting line of a strapless jersey pattern onto my fabric. I put guide lines in: a yellow thread (use a broad running stitch) marks the center front and back of the dress; the blue lines indicate the stitching lines. Attach this to the frame, using tacks (the red dots) to hold in place. Don't stretch the fabric. You just want to keep this taunt enough to stop the fabric from moving or shrinking as you sew on the paillettes. 

1. Again, I wanted the look of scales. So I started at the center front line near the hem. Attach the first paillette using the above instructions. Secure the first one in place, then work your way up.
2. I apply the second one so that the hole is at the top of the edge of the one beneath.
3. Continue along that center front guide line until you reach the furthest edge.
4. Stop, knot. Then begin the second column at the bottom. 
5. I like to work from the center front towards the side, using each row as a guide. 
6. Note how, not only have I overlapped each paillette from the top, but I have also overlapped slightly on each side.

7. When finished, it will look something like this
8. Cut along the cutting lines. To sew, fold down the side seam of the front and lay over the side seam of the garment back. Hand sew in place. Repeat for the other side. You can use a a strip of tulle (or similar product) to finish the top of the dress as well as the hem. The dress foundation is stretch, so it will simply slide on and off the doll!
Okay so now we are at the stage where I can hear some of you saying....why on earth would I want to spend time sewing on "sequins" when I can buy already made fabric. Well.....first of all, most stores won't sell less than 1/2 yard or 50 cm, so you can make only what you know you'll use. Secondly, you can customize. I've made dresses here where I've simply covered them with the same paillette, but you, on the other hand, can mix, match, create patterns or simply apply on part of the garment!
For example, you can apply a few rows of paillettes as a trim. Think what you could do to the hem of a dress, skirt or even bell bottomed pants or calypso sleeves with spangles!


Embellishing woven fabrics
For my last experiment, I made a basic sheath dress from a non-stretch cotton. What I should have done was to either remove the darts or to have chosen a shift or tent style dress. Out of habit, I made this dress to fit the body..which is really why one would use stretch. Nonetheless, I completed what I started, darts and all. What is good about using wovens is that you can add a lining to your garment afterwards.

1. I made this dress from a simple white cotton. I wanted the focus to remain on the paillette in its natural state. But after you make that first dress, don't hesitate to play around with your paillettes and different colored backgrounds. The darts and the side seams are stitched. There are plenty of guidelines to help me through the process which we have described earlier in this post.

2. Here's a tip: As you approach the sides, be mindful of these curved areas. Leave them until the end. Then add the paillettes in to fill the space.

3. When you have finished and it's time to close up the shoulders and back seam....fold the top shoulders down and lay them over the back shoulder seam allowance in such a way that the rows of paillettes are relatively close to each other.
 4. When you have finished, you should not see the seams. At the back center seam, fold the center seam of the left side of the back down and lay over the seam allowance of the right side and stitch down, leaving enough room for the doll to get in and out of the dress.
For a sleeveless dress, fold the armhole seams inside and baste. Do the same around the armholes of your lining. Pin the lining face to face with the garment around the neckline and hand sew in place. Slash the curves around the neckline. Line up the armholes of the lining and the dress, hand stitch together with tiny hidden stitches. Close the dress with a hook and eye at the neckline.


And so, my dolly friends.....that brings us to the close of 2018. I've enjoyed sharing all my creative dolly endeavors with you. On behalf of all my Barbie divas and their Ken companions, my Fashion Royalty princesses and their handsome FR Homme princes, my sultryTonner dolls and even the three  audacious My Scene dolls who somehow sneaked into my home and heart.... 

Happy New Year!
We'll see you back here in 2019!!!

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Life Book 2018 July Lessons


www.willowing.org http://www.hijoyting.com/   https://www.juliegibbons.com/   https://effywild.com/   http://yellowrosedbs.blogspot.com/    Life Book 2013 pages HERE or Life Book 2014 HERE or Life Book 2015 HERE or Life Book 2016 HERE or Life Book 2017 HERE or Life Book 2018 HERE or Life Book 2019 HERE
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2018 In Review


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2018 Dolls Given and Received


18-inch circa 1960s high-heel fashion doll marked P11.
Dolls Given

In addition to the My Forever First Lady Bookmark sent to my friend for Christmas, I also sent her another 18-inch high-heel fashion doll to add to her collection.  Shown above, the doll was purchased from a Facebook friend during the spring of 2018.  Plans had been to send the doll in August 2018 with other birthday gifts, but in May 2018, I found a different 1960s high-heel fashion doll, shown here, that I sent my friend instead for her birthday.  Since 14R and other 18-inch 1950s-1960s high-heel fashion dolls are difficult to find, and these are the dolls my friend prefers to collect now, I held this one back to give her for Christmas.

Close-up of her lovely face

She is missing her bridal veil.  Except for the drop pearl earrings and silver high-heel shoes I added, the doll is all original including her off-white taffeta undies.  As illustrated in the second photo above, her face is immaculate, all eyelashes are intact, and her hair is still in great condition.


Possible Dreams Santa "What's in the Box?" #4056203

My friend and I both collect Possible Dreams African American Santas.  This year I sent What's in the Box? by Possible Dreams to her, shown above in a stock photo.  I added a little something-something to the box Santa holds.

She sent Possible Dreams Lollipop Santa to me, which is shown in the next four photos.


Possible Dreams Lollipop Santa #6000705

Close-up of Lollipop Santa better illustrates the little girl's face.

This is how Santa looks from behind.

Lollipop Santa's peppermint-candy-themed gift bag holds a gift and candy.

Lollipop Santa holds a little girl whose arms are reaching for the lollipop he holds.  Santa has a peppermint-themed gift bag that holds a wrapped gift, candy canes, and more lollipops.

Because of their realism, I enjoy collecting Department 57 Possible Dreams Clothtique Santas.  The history is included on the back of Lollipop Santa's box and reads:

Our very first Clothtique Possible Dreams Santa was introduced in 1985.  The stiffened fabric process was inspired by Vintage European Statuettes.  Our unique combination of sculpting and fabrics bring each Santa to life. 
Designed by Ann Dezendorf in the U.S., every Possible Dreams Santa is hand made by a team of skilled artisans.  Each is carefully packaged and delivered with exquisite detail and artistic expertise...
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Doll Gifts From My Friend



The Christmas wish list I shared with my friend included only two doll-related items.  I never ask for anything that isn't doll related, but she always surprises with me with loads of other things.  The photo above was taken of the oversized shipping box of beautifully wrapped presents she sent this year.  The doll-related asked-for items which were included and shown next were the 30th Anniversary 2018 Holiday Barbie and a Hallmark Keepsake Barbie ornament which is inspired by that doll.

30th Anniversary 2018 Holiday Barbie and Hallmark Keepsake ornament inspired by the 2018 Holiday Barbie

The 30th Anniversary 2018 Holiday Barbie is the first African American Holiday Barbie with natural hair and is the only reason I wanted this doll as I do not actively collect Holiday Barbies.  I do collect the annual Holiday Barbie ornaments.  This doll has up-slanted almond-shaped brown eyes that I had not seen previously on a manufactured Barbie.  I have, however, seen this done by a doll collector/artist whose online photos of her work might have inspired the Mattel designer's creation of this doll.  IJS.

Take a closer look at 2018 Holiday Barbie

Hallmark Keepsake 2018 Barbie Ornament out of the box


The back of the 30th Anniversary Holiday Barbie's box illustrates the other two dolls in this Barbie Signature collection.  Note that each doll's arms are positioned differently.

Also included with my doll items from my friend was a reproduction of Barbie's #1640 Matinee fashion.  (I was 10 when this fashion was first released!)

Reproduction of Barbie Matinee Fashion #1640
The fashion, which was originally released in 1965, includes a red sleeveless sheath, waist-length long-sleeved jacket with leopard-print fur at collar and sleeves, and red hat with attached sheer scarf. The red closed-toe shoes that came with the fashion are missing. 

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Dolls From My Daughter

After she asked what I wanted for Christmas, I gave my daughter a wish list of two dolls.  Sibahle Collection Zuri, a doll that represents albinism and Barbie Mod Friend's Giftset.  

Zuri

Part of Sibahle Collection's Rainbow Nation, Zuri is a 13-1/2-inch all-vinyl doll.  Her name means "beautiful" in Swahili.

The back of Zuri's box describes the company's mission to create a diverse line of dolls representing different races, skin tones, and skin conditions.

Zuri represents a girl with albinism.  She has gray eyes, blonde 4C-textured hair, blonde eyelashes, and freckles.  

She is dressed in a full-length dress, the bodice of which has black ovals on a tan, rust, or orange (in the back) background.  The skirt has three layers of orange tulle over an orange fabric underskirt.  Zuri can be ordered wearing an orange, pink, or yellow dress.

She wears white undies and has on white flat shoes.

Zuri's hair is pulled up into a high ponytail to create one Afro puff.
In a recent blog post, I shared information and a link to Sibahle's crowdfunding campaign for a doll that represents a person with vitiligo.  I am happy to announce that their goal was met.
Ndanaka, which means "I am beautiful" in Shona, is scheduled to be released in March 2019.

Barbie Mod Friends Gift Set

The week before Christmas, a member of my doll group shared that both Walmart and Amazon dot com had the Barbie Mod Friends Gift Set reduced from $80 to $40.  I had originally asked my daughter to buy another Sibahle doll for me (Neha), but that doll was out of stock.  I thought about asking her to contribute to the crowdfunding campaign for Ndanaka, but because I'd have to wait until March or possibly thereafter to receive the doll, I asked for the Barbie Mod Friends Gift Set instead.


Barbie Mod Friends Gift Set
The gift set includes vintage reproductions of 1968 Christie, Barbie, and Stacey.  The dolls are dressed in mod, brightly colored fashions, and judging from the weight of the box, the material from which they are made closely replicates that used in 1968.  The box is quite heavy!  The box lining is pink decorated with a darker pink "flower power" pattern.  As shown above, they are presented in a box with a clear front panel which provides visibility of each doll almost entirely.  So, for now, I have no plans to remove them from the box.

Close-up of the dolls' faces

The vibrant colors of their fashions and the dolls themselves so remind me of the hours I spent as a child playing with my Barbies (none of which were Black), but the fond memories remain.  I do not recall if I ever owned Stacey, but she is a welcome addition to my adult collection.

In this photo, taken from a downward angle, the dolls' Pilgrim-style pumps can be seen.  Christie's shoes are orange.  Barbie and Stacey's shoes are lime green.

The back of the gift set box describes the dolls' friendship.
The gift set includes the three dolls, three doll stands, and a certificate of authenticity.


dbg
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De: Black Doll Collecting - https://blackdollcollecting.blogspot.com/2018/12/2018-dolls-given-and-received.html
Fecha: December 31, 2018 at 02:00AM
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